Hire a car for three days and you can declare “ I’ve done Lesvos “ when you return home. This is OK for your first visit to this island. During your second visit to Lesvos you will do a little more, the third time you will appreciate more details. On your fourth visit you will look out for the wild orchids, the birds and the caves and you will want to go back to some of the places you have already visited…and so on… Geographically Thermi is the perfect place to stay and an ideal centre from which to explore the island. We would like to suggest to you: one trip to the North, one to the South and one to the west. The trip to the “ far west” will involve a three to four hour round trip ( 200 km. ). The other two trips will only take 2-3 hours (100-120km). However, driving is always a pleasure on an island like Lesvos, where the landscape changes every ten minutes, from the grey-green of the olive groves in the east, to the green of the pine trees in the centre and then to the ochre yellow and brown of the rocky west. And somewhere, in every picture you take, you will find the turquoise blue, the green blue or the dark ultramarine of the Aegean. Even right in the middle of the island you will be amazed to find water where the two gulfs of Gera and Kalloni slip down between the hills..  
The North of Lesvos    

Mandamados: Here you can buy traditional pottery at reasonable prices for you and your friends. Stay for a while to visit the monastery of Taxiarchis, just on the way out of the village. The church is built on the plan of the usual Lesvos Basilica but the interior decoration follows a special oriental rococo style with beautiful light colours. Although the other church in the centre of the village is also very interesting and older, Taxiarchis is one of the three most important religious centres of the island. You might be lucky enough to join in with an orthodox wedding or baptism there. Many Greeks come to Lesvos in order to celebrate a special day here. The metal shoes you see everywhere in the island’s shops, have their origin here. Archangel Michael (or Taxiarchis), keeps walking around the island every day and night in order to protect us, our families and our goods. This is why, although these shoes are not ordinary but metallic ones, every year we have to offer a new pair of shoes to this Saint, as the old ones already have holes underneath!!
 
     
Interior decoration of the Taxiarchis church of Mandamados: The influence of rococo was strong in the Ottoman Empire in the 18th and 19th centuries. You will never see it in the façade of a church or mosque but you will often find it inside the buildings  
     
The church of the "mermaid Virgin Mary" in Skamia gave her name to one of Stratis Myrivilis' famous novels. The people you see on the rocks are not only looking at the sunset but the same time are participating in a wedding, which is taking place inside the tiny church. Traditionally most celebrations take place in open-air places.
 
     

Sykaminea, as it is indicated on the signs or Skamia, as the locals call it: Starting early after breakfast, you will have the time to visit the main village on the mountains first. If not drive 3km down to the port (Skala) of Skamia. This is a tiny fishing harbour where you can sit by the water and enjoy a drink or a snack at a table.. Stratis Myrivilis, an important writer of the thirties, comes from this place and you can be sure to find one of his books here, translated into English or German. The chapel at the breakwater gave its name to one of his novels: "The Mermaid Virgin Mary”. It conveys absolutely the atmosphere during the period after 1922 when orthodox greeks arrived as refugees from the Asia minor coast opposite.

From Skamia you drive to Molivos. To take the proper road you have to go up again to the hills. This road leads you to Molivos through Vafios and the view over the sea to the coast of Asia Minor is splendid. In Vafios you can have maybe the most interesting traditional cooking on the island. If alternatively you decide instead to take the track road along the beach, then have a swim in Eftalou. And if it is too cool for a swim, then first take a thermal bath! Then you can jump from the hot water in to the cold Aegean! One small detail: To find the Baths and the nice pebble beaches of Eftalou you need to leave the car immediately after you reach the beach again, before the hotels, and walk to the right along the coastline.


Molivos is the medieval name for Mythimna, the second biggest ancient town-city of Lesvos.Since the early Sixties, this village has been protected, because of its traditional architecture. This is the reason that, although Molivos was the first touristy place on Lesvos, it is still not spoilt. No big hotels, no big apartment houses but instead only relatively small new stone buildings. The only thing that makes it touristy are … the tourists! You get the best view from the castle at the top of the town. There are several good pubs and cafes around the harbour. Walking in the narrow streets of the Agora (market), the overhanging wistaria will protect you from the sun even at midday, and pubs and cafés with hanging balconies will tempt you in at least for a coffee.

Then visit Petra and maybe Petri and Anaxos.....info about these is coming soon!